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Nantucket Dreaming
Wednesday, January 14, 2004; Page F07
On a cold rainy night in January, Jetties seems the right place to be. The whole place has the cozy look of a beach shack, so, if your imagination is still stirring even on a dark and stormy night, it's easy to pretend that you're in shorts and flip-flops, not your tired old black wool coat and boots. The ceiling fan is whirring overhead, the menu is written on a chalkboard, sandwiches are named for the beaches on Nantucket, there's lots of fresh hot coffee and 18 flavors of Gifford's ice cream by the scoop. Is it winter? Is it summer? Who cares, let's eat! On Foxhall Road just south of Reservoir Road, Jetties was created with several goals in mind, according to chef David Scribner, who's also the chef at Smith Point restaurant in Georgetown: "To make great sandwiches, to be consistent, to have the neighborhood like us, to make great dinner specials, to start delivering in the immediate neighborhood and to be a great ice cream place, a spot where the whole family can come."
Okay, let's take those one at a time. Jetties makes delicious, inventive sandwiches. If you want a simple ham and cheese, you can get that too, but I wouldn't until I had tried every one of the specialties ($6.75 each). The Nobadeer is roasted warm turkey, thickly cut (the real deal, not the processed stuff), homemade stuffing and cranberry sauce and mayonnaise on sourdough. It is better than anything I've ever made with my own Thanksgiving leftovers. The Sconset is a nice slab of multigrain bread spread with homemade hummus, muenster cheese, sprouts, tomato, cucumber and avocado, a vegetarian sandwich hearty enough for lunch or dinner.
The dinner specials (all $9.95 for a hefty portion) change nightly: Right now there's a rotation of comfort foods (shepherd's pie on Tuesday, chicken pot pie on Friday, for example) as well as sides of soup and chili, but those dishes may change when the weather gets warmer. That's when Scribner expects the action around the ice cream bar to pick up, the students and families to stroll in, or dine outside at the tables and chairs in front of the store. There's a salad bar (45 cents an ounce), but the pickings seemed slim in comparison to the specialties. On weekends, there are breakfast sandwiches, bagels, doughnuts and sticky buns.
Delivery -- only to the immediate neighborhood, Georgetown University and Georgetown Hospital -- is starting just this week. So be patient. And remember: beach weather is just around the corner.
-- Jeanne McManus, Washington Post
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